Perfumed Letters

Reading the scent trail of fragrance and words

(Belated) Post Cards from Lyon


A meticulously reconstructed set from the film adaptation of  Süskind’s Das Parfum. In Musée des miniatures et Décors de  Cinéma (Lyon, France).

A meticulously reconstructed set from the film adaptation of Süskind’s Das Parfum. In Musée des miniatures et Décors de Cinéma (Lyon, France).

Street smells, Lyon 2012

Street smells, Lyon 2012

Last  summer I spent a month in Lyon, France. My mission? To teach and finish up some work projects while keeping olfaction distraction in check. My sixth-floor apartment loomed above a a little square on a cobblestone pedestrian street from which the smell of crêpes, kabobs, and cotton candy wafted well into the evening. And then there was the linden, about which I’ve said plenty already. During a visit to L’Artisan parfumeur (rue Herriot) where I inquired about perfume workshops for my students, an SA suggested I might want to go to Paris instead.  Lyon, she sighed, is really in the sticks. I felt my scent-radar shift down a few notches. Yet I encountered some fragrant surprises. Culled from the depths of partially drafted blog posts, and better late than never  (I hope), here are some fragrant post cards from Lyon.
A must-see
Musée des miniatures et Décors de  Cinéma located in the historic Maison des Avocats.A quirky museum, offering impressive minatures, and an eclectic collection of cinema memorabilia–including creepy, life-sized set recreations from the 2006 film adaption (Perfume: The Story of a Murderer) of Patrick Süskind’s 1985 novel Das Parfum. 

Grenouille hard at work.

Grenouille hard at work.

Creepy museum staircase connects Perfume displays

Creepy museum staircase connects Perfume displays

My own staircase

Compare and contrast my own staircase

La Mûre favorite (19 cours Franklin Roosevelt, 69006)

La Mûre favorite is a bit off the beaten trail. Combine it with a walk to France’s largest urban green space, the  beautiful Tête d’or, so named for a golden head of Christ buried, as legend has it,  somewhere in the park. This independent shop has its own  stock of treasures:  L’Artisan parfumeur, Byrédo, Killian, Miller Harris, Parfumérie générale, Serges Lutens and more. The welcoming, no-pressure, atmosphere and knowledgeable sales staff are plus.

atelierparfumelyonL’Ateleir parfumé at 27 rue Tupin is another good sport for niche sampling.

 the soaps are from the open-air market in Aix-en-Provence
I had no idea the Casino supermarket chain sold its own colognes. No, I didn’t buy any.
Always a welcome sight and scent

Annick Goutal, where I fell in love with Nuit éoilée

Outside the Musée des Miniatures et Décors de cinéma

4 thoughts on “(Belated) Post Cards from Lyon

  1. Another facinating journey. It is not just me, my bank account thanks you too. Love armchair travel.

  2. I”m happy to help in any way I can, Jordan.It took me so long to post this, that it is arm-chair travel for me as well. The next best thing to being there, I guess.

  3. Oh I say, this is such a great overview of the fragrant highlights of Lyon, where I have been a number of times, though not as a fumie. Love the ‘Perfume’ film set recreations. That is one seriously creepy staircase. This post should go into our Perfume Shopping guide that Undina coordinates. Oh, and I love Nuit Etoilee too!

    • Hi, Vanessa!

      That is one of the all-time best quirky museums. BTW, a small child clinging to her mother refused to go up the stairs. And there is a warning sign just outside the instillation that depicts the marinating woman.

      I did pretty well in Lyon for someone who was trying not to hang out in perfume shops. The SA basically showered me in Nuit étoilée on marvelously hot, sunny day. I’d never felt so refreshed by perfume. A similar thing happened with La Pluie at La Mûre favorite a few weeks later.

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