As a perfume mecca, Grasse is both over- and underrated. The town doesn’t get a lot of love from guidebooks. There is something disproportionate about the sea of tour buses and the little Fragonard “train” in this otherwise modest village with a spectacular view and historic charm. Some of Grasse’s narrow stone streets lead toward Notre Dame du Puy Cathedral, which dates to the 11th century and houses three paintings by Rubens. But almost everyone comes to Grasse for the perfume.